“Phobic” Psittacine Birds – An Increasing Phenomenon?

 

Liz Wilson, CVT

215-946-5964

Lwilsoncvt@att.net

www.upatsix.com/liz

 

Introduction

 

Of all the aberrant behaviors seen in companion psittacines, the “phobic” or neurotically fearful bird is one of the most devastating. With no history of abuse, these birds abruptly respond to their owners with absolute terror. Since owners cannot approach the bird without producing a hysterical flight response, serious problems result with the human-parrot bond. Particularly distressing to the avian veterinarian is the high-strung psittacine bird who becomes a full-blown phobic as a result of a veterinary visit. Behavior consultants are seeing and hearing about increasing numbers of birds that are described as "phobic." This may indicate an increase in this phenomenon, an increase in the use of the term, or increased recognition of the problem. This article seeks to define this condition and discuss the following: theoretical etiologies, possible prevention, and techniques for rehabilitation. Most of the ideas put forth are a compilation of multiple personal conversations between the author, colleagues, and clients who are working with their own phobic pets.

 

What Phobics Are, And Are Not

 

First, as definition of what a phobic bird is and is not: a phobic or neurotically fearful bird is not simply afraid of new toys or new people. A truly phobic psittacine is terrified by absolutely everything. A truly phobic bird – despite being a hand-raised domestic – acts like a wild bird, apparently fearing for its life when humans approach. It is hyper-reactive to direct eye contact, and goes into a panic attack if humans stare. It is hyper-reactive to sound, movement, and most especially human hands. A phobic psittacine has invisible boundaries around its territory, and once transversed by a human, it will thrash around wildly, trying to escape. Consequently, a phobic often breaks multiple blood feathers, does extensive soft tissue damage to keel and wing tips, and even fractures metacarpals and phalanges in a hysterical effort to flee. High-strung birds are often fearful of new things, but calm during handling by trusted humans. These birds are not phobics. The term is often incorrectly applied to birds that are simply fearful or nervous. To further muddy the waters, there are degrees of phobic behaviors, ranging from mild to severe, with a gray area between a bird that is simply very frightened, and one that is borderline phobic. Ordinarily, aggressive birds are not phobic (Doss J, personal communications 1997-98). There has been discussion concerning whether or not these are two different responses to the same stimulus. If so, insecure birds that perceive themselves as being threatened, unprotected, or frightened, can become either phobic or aggressive, depending on individual personality type (Linden P, Dicker L, personal communications 1997). Care must be taken to accurately diagnose phobics, since they are handled so differently. A recent case of a "phobic" yellow-naped Amazon (Amazona ochrocephala auropalliata) turned out to be an idiopathic medical problem, and the bird's screaming was dissipated by the use of the dopamine antagonist, haloperidol [Haldol, Henry Schein] (Kupersmith D, personal communications 1997-1998). In another case with a "phobic" African grey parrot (Psittacus erithacus), the bird turned out to intensely dislike its owner (Linden P, personal communications 1997).

 

Primary Species Affected

 

Experience indicates that some species are particularly prone to phobic behaviors. These species would include small cockatoos like the rose-breasted (Eolophus roseicapillus), citron-crested (Cacatua sulphurea citrinocristata) and triton (C. s. triton); small Poicephalus (i.e., Meyers parrots [P. meyeri] and Senegal parrots [P. senegalus]); African greys [especially the Congo [Psittacus erithacus erithacus]; and eclectus parrots (Eclectus roratus). The only Amazon listed in this group is the blue-fronted Amazon (A. aestiva). It is not a coincidence that these same species are also predisposed to feather plucking. 

 

Age Ranges

 

Phobics are generally adolescents or young adults. However, a truly phobic bird must be differentiated from an individual bird exhibiting normal adolescent challenges. During this developmental phase, young psittacines try to assert their dominance over flock members by refusing to come out of the cage, or thrashing around the cage when humans approach. This behavior is actually a temper tantrum, or power play.

 

Theoretical Etiologies

 

The phobic bird is probably the result of multiple etiologies. Theories abound, but none, to the author's knowledge, have basis yet in science. Hypotheses include: nutritional imbalances such as excessive protein levels, chemical imbalances (like some types of schizophrenia), and genetics. Occasionally, a particular incident seems to precipitate this behavior, but this is probably a stressor, not the actual underlying cause. The potential for phobic behaviors in high-strung species, like African greys, may increase if neonates are maintained in too much light – for example, in glass aquariums under neon lighting in a pet store. Early handling is also important, as there seems to be greater potential for phobic behaviors for birds coming from mass production situations. These birds are often gavage-fed and force-weaned, probably laying a foundation of early distrust and fear. Problems also arise when sensitive species receive no early socialization, or are over-protected by human caretakers. Unweaned birds sold to inexperienced hand-feeders are also possibly more prone to behavioral abnormalities, since there are so many problems that can arise that can damage formation of a bond of trust with the human caretaker. Other etiologies would include physical and psychological abuse (which would include traumatic capture and restraint techniques, or “bad toweling”), changing homes multiple times, and traumatic “grooming” experiences, particularly with young birds.[1] This will be discussed in more depth.

 

Prevention

 

Techniques for preventing the development of phobic personalities are those that encourage a young bird to develop its full potential within the pet environment, or what has been described as “a sense of self” (Brinker B, personal communications 1997).  These techniques begin with the aviculturist and hand feeder, and continue with the future owners.

V proper early development – the nurturing of self-confidence and individual potential, as originated by Phoebe Linden at the Santa Barbara Bird Farm.

V abundance feeding and gradual weaning at the bird's pace, not the human's.

V normal fledging, then gradual clipping prior to sale, which greatly increases a young bird's sense of personal safety.[2]

V establishment of clear behavioral guidelines in the new home so the bird is secure in its own rank within the human flock.[3]

 

Owners of high-strung birds must relax prior to handling. Movements must be deliberate and calm to not heighten the animal's anxieties. A “hyper” owner will often exacerbate a problematic situation, pushing an anxious bird into a full-blown phobic state.

           

Traumas and Transference

 

It is logical to assume that intelligent animals like psittacines are capable of forming a memory link between a terrifying – therefore, high adrenaline – experience, and a confrontational owner. For example, there have been repeated incidents in California with birds responding to the terror of an earthquake by becoming phobic with the owner. In this situation, we suspect the frightened bird is actually transferring its fear of the situation to the owner (Blanchard S, personal communications 1996). This is also probably what happens when a sensitive avian individual becomes phobic with the owner after a stressful visit to a veterinarian. In this situation, the owner's response is often to rush over to the bird, frantically worried about the bird’s well being. The owner's own high tension frightens the bird even more, and its terror can be directly transferred to the owner, resulting in a phobic response to the person the bird used to trust above all.

 

A Kinder, Gentler Veterinarian Visit

 

Thanks to work done by Pepperburg[4], we know that psittacine birds are sentient beings. Consequently, the psychology of psittacine medicine is more like pediatric medicine, rather than canine and feline medicine. If staff members respond to the psittacine patient as they would to a small child, veterinary visits might be less traumatic for all involved. Unhappily, many avian veterinarians are rushed for time, so they often neglect to properly introduce themselves to the psittacine patient. This negative situation is exacerbated by what Sally Blanchard calls The Harpy Eagle Catch,[5] when the veterinarian or technician swoops down with a towel to grab the unwary patient.

 

The majority of psittacine birds seen in the US are domestically raised and do not perceive humans as predators. Hence, the Harpy Eagle Catch – developed as a defensive technique for safely capturing wild birds – is not only unnecessary, it is detrimental. Thanks to Blanchard's work, the author has changed her toweling technique completely, now utilizing what she calls The Frontal Towel Approach. Instead of swooping down on a bird from behind, this technique is not only more benevolent, but also more realistic. The eyes of prey animals like psittacine birds are located on the sides of their heads, so their peripheral vision warns them of a forthcoming predatory attack. Consequently, the Harpy Eagle Catch probably throws a bird into a full fight or flight response as it is captured in the towel. Once this visceral response is initiated, the resulting adrenaline rush causes the bird to fight frantically.

 

In contrast, the Frontal Towel Approach does not elicit this terrified response. When placing a tame parrot under restraint, the author suggests handlers do the following: talking quietly to the bird (not the owner), the patient is stepped onto a hand, and the bird's feet are pinned by the handler's fingers. Smiling in a friendly and relaxed manner and continuing to talk softly, the handler catches one corner of the towel in the fingers of the hand on which the bird is sitting, and smoothly wraps the towel around the bird. The animal is then gently put under full restraint. Even a bird that is terrified of towels can be captured in this manner. Generally, a frightened bird flips backwards as the towel

 

 

Presenting hand for parrot to step up on.Parrot perched on hand.

 

FIGURE 1: The parrot is stepped onto the hand and the handler greets the bird in a friendly manner.

 

approaches, but since the handler is already pinning the feet, it cannot escape. The towel is then wrapped around the upside down bird, it is lowered to the table and restraint is commenced as usual. A full autonomic response has not been initiated with this technique, and the bird relaxes quickly. 

 

Restraint is extremely stressful to a bird, no matter how artfully done, and it is important that the bird be released as quickly as possible. Consequently, while birds are under restraint is not the optimum time for veterinarians to pause and answer owner's questions. If this is explained to the owner before beginning the procedure, no misunderstandings will arise. A pad and pencil can be provided for the owner to jot down questions to ask once the bird is released.

 

Many educated bird owners, in an effort to decrease the stress of restraint, have patterned their birds to accept being wrapped in towels. These owners will wish to towel their birds themselves, then hand the towel-wrapped parrot to the veterinarian, and they will be understandably displeased if the clinician chooses to undo this training with a predatory grab. If the veterinarian is not comfortable having the owner do this, then the doctor or technician can accomplish the towel wrap in the same friendly, non-aggressive manner. As far as the author is concerned, it is absolutely unnecessary for tame birds to be grabbed from behind or by first darkening the room, since she has been using this frontal approach for almost a decade, and has not yet been bitten using it – and thanks to it, most birds seem dramatically less stressed by restraint.

 

Advice To The Owners In the Veterinarian's Exam Room

 

Prior to capture and restraint, the veterinarian or technician needs to explain to owners that many psittacine birds, especially adolescents, react negatively to the veterinary visit. Owners must understand that if they get extremely upset by the medical procedures necessary, that they will make the situation much worse for the bird and possibly cause damage to their long-term relationship. The option can be offered for the owner to leave the room prior to handling, since some birds end up holding a grudge, even with the beloved owner (Beresford B, personal communications 1997). However, care must be taken not to give the impression the veterinarian has anything to hide, nor should the clinician automatically remove the bird from the exam room without prior discussion with the owner. If clients chose to stay, they should also be warned against petting the bird while it is under restraint, since people get badly bitten this way. The owner should also not tell the bird it is "All right," since that is a blatant lie as far as the bird is concerned. That phrase should only be used to reassure a bird when something is scary but not threatening (i.e., carrying a large box through the room). To use it when a bird is under restraint is to remove the ability of those words to reassure and to put the owner's credibility in jeopardy. In the author's opinion, this is the avian equivalent to telling a child that a painful procedure "won't hurt." 

 

During restraint, the stress reactions of the patient cannot be ignored. By watching the patient's respiratory rate, the handler can judge when it might be necessary to stop and allow the patient a break. This can often be done by simply stroking the restrained bird for a couple of seconds, while talking softly (Lightfoot T, personal communications 1998). When respiration slows, work can resume. If the patient gets extremely stressed, it should be released for a short break before continuing.

 

Once procedures are completed, the traumatized adolescent psittacine should be released into its carrier, not into the arms of the owners. Owners can then calmly reassure the bird verbally without any physical contact. Once home, owners should be instructed to open the carrier door and then move away. Continuing to talk in a reassuring manner, they allow the bird to exit the carrier on its own. Observing from a distance, their peripheral vision will tell them when the bird's body language indicates that it is relaxing, at which point the owners can approach. By not forcing themselves on the animal immediately subsequent to a trauma, owners avoid fixing a connection in the bird's mind between them and the terrors of the veterinary exam room, thereby doing no damage to the trust between pet bird and human caretaker. 

 

Grooming and Preventing Problems From Developing

 

Horror stories abound regarding young psittacines and bad grooming, and this is probably a primary cause of many phobic episodes. With wings and nails overclipped, clumsy fledglings tend to fall hard, splitting the skin over their keels and painfully jamming tail feathers into their follicles. These traumas also can lead to feather picking.

 

It is critical that groomers understand that sensitive species can be badly traumatized by severe grooming, setting the bird up for serious problems. Young psittacines need protection from falling while they develop their balancing skills, so nature gives them needle-sharp claws with which to hang on. Clipping these nails short makes life terrifying for these fledglings, which then constantly fall. Rather than clip, sharp tips can be filed off, leaving the nails as long as possible for strong gripping.[6] Following a nail clip, it is undesirable to have a bird falling off its perch on the trip home. A few revolutions around the perch of a non-toxic bandaging material [i.e., Vetrap, 3M, St. Paul, MN] will provide a good grip, using neutral colors so not to terrify the bird. Alternatively, the perch can be removed from the carrier, especially if it is large. Commonly, perches that come with some cages are much too large for the foot size of the bird. Comfortably sized perches will allow the bird to wrap their feet most of the way around the diameter, thereby providing a stronger, safer grip. Appropriately sized branches with bark intact also work nicely.

 

Wing clipping styles vary widely and the author does not intend to address this controversial subject now. Suffice to say clips must be proper for the particular age and species of parrot, then customized for the individual's flight capabilities. The author clips the absolute minimum number of feathers, then test-flies the birds, and clips more if necessary. More feathers can always be removed, but it is more difficult to imp them back on, so caution is necessary. Owners are instructed to return for further clipping within two weeks, at no extra charge, should a bird fly too well in its own environment. Taking a few more feathers later is preferred to the bird crashing like a fallen cinderblock, thus getting into what the author calls "The Splat and Split Syndrome."

 

Once grooming is completed, the author instructs the owners of young birds to pad the cage bottom or grid with several layers of towels, covered with layers of newspaper for cleanliness. Owners of exceptionally clumsy birds should consider padding the floor around the cage while the bird adjusts to the lack of flight, and they must keep the newly clipped bird off of high places, such as shoulders and cages tops. By not allowing access to high places, birds are prevented from falling great distances.

 

Rehabilitation

 

Owners of phobic birds must understand that rehabilitation will take a long time, often years. The first task is to begin to reestablish a relationship of trust. Blanchard suggests the owner bring a chair as close to the cage as possible without frightening the bird, and sit there for a while daily, reading a book or magazine (Blanchard S, personal communications 1997). Others have found that reading aloud softly, or singing (even badly) yields a positive reaction from the phobic psittacine bird (Doss J, personal communications 1997).[7] No direct eye contact should be made, but instead using what Blanchard calls "soft eyes," where owners look at the bird for a split second, then turn their eyes and face away. This is a submissive stance, which often reassures the phobic bird.[8] Phobics are often terrified of strong light, so they work better in lower light. They can also be frightened by sounds, but soft music often settles them much more than total silence. The human caretaker should keep their voice soft, and keep their bodies lower than the bird.

 

As fundamentally wild animals (domestic bred or not), birds need a hiding place in their cages. These hiding places can be as simple as hanging a towel over one corner of the cage, or clumping toys or branches together by a favorite perch, creating a "wall" behind which the bird can avoid the human's glance when it so wishes.[9] Cage location is also important, and not just with phobics. Bird's cages are often placed next to windows, or out on porches. Unless placed against a wall, these prey species then have a full 360-degree radius in which to watch for predators, resulting in extensive stress. Simply moving a cage against a solid wall and away from skylights, can also have a dramatically positive effect on psittacines doing excessive amounts of screaming. 

 

Allowing a phobic bird to regrow its wings is often extremely helpful in building the animal's self-confidence. Owners should be carefully instructed on techniques as to how to keep the bird safe while flighted (Doss J, personal communications 1997).

 

Rehabilitation should entail letting the bird choose when and how it wishes interaction. Getting “in the bird’s face” and forcing the issue will only make things worse. The bird needs to progress at its own speed and it cannot be hurried.

 

Pharmaceuticals

 

Psychoactive drugs such as haloperidol may be useful with phobic psittacines, but the author wishes to emphasize the words of Ritchie, Harrison and Harrison in their landmark text. While discussing psychoactive drugs for treatment of feather picking, they state the following: "Should be used in conjunction with behavioral modification [italics mine] to correct the inciting cause of the destructive behavior."[10] This is also true with phobic behaviors – drugs should not replace behavior modification, nor should drug therapy be continued indefinitely.

 

This article was updated in 2004. The original article (titled “Phobic Parrots – An Increasing Phenomena?”) was first printed in the 1998 Proceedings of the Annual Conference of the Association of Avian Veterinarians

 



1     Hauser D. Kenya. African ark. Unpublished.

[2]    Cravens E. The progressive wing clip method. Birdkeeping Naturally 1996.

[3]    Wilson L. Behavior problems in adolescent parrots. Proc Annu Conf Assoc Av Vet 1995; 415-418

[4]    Pepperburg I. Proc Annu Conf MASAAV 1991; 118-123.

[5]    Trust building towel handling techniques. The Pet Bird Report, 1994;14:36-37

[6]    Blanchard S. Phobic parrots. Bird talk. 90/8(8):64-73.

[7]    Leinneweber T,  My ms. duncan, African ark. unpublished.

[8]    Blanchard S. Soft eye, evil eye. The pet bird report. 92/2(2):1-5.

[9]    Blanchard S. Phobic parrots. Bird talk. 90/8(8):64-73.

[10]    Ritchie B, Harrison G. Formulary. In: Ritchie B, Harrison G, Harrison L (eds). Avian medicine: principles and application. Lake Worth, FL: Wingers Publishing Inc, 1994:457-478.